GUTES ESSEN UND TRINKEN HAELT LEIB UND SEELE ZUSAMMEN.
GOOD FOOD AND DRINKS WILL KEEP BODY AND SOUL TOGETHER.

  Bratwurst, Kraut or a cheese plate and Rauchbier.

We already heard about the Seven Hills of Bamberg, which are Cathedral Hill, Michaelsberg, Kaulberg/Obere Pfarre, Stefansberg, Jakobsberg, Altenburger Hill and Abtsberg. We learned about all in the first part of this post, except the Altenburg.

     The Altenburg.

The first mention of the Altenburg was in 1109, although it is likely that it was built on the spot of an earlier palisade castle. It first served as what is known is German as a „Fliehburg“. This is a castle that was not regularly inhabited, but served mainly for city defense as a place where local residents could flee to in times of danger.

     Inside the castle Altenburg.

In 1251, the Bamberg „Fürstbischöfe,“ the sovereign bishops of Bamberg, acquired the castle. From 1305 to 1553, it was the residence of the bishops. In 1553, during the Second Margrave War, the army of Albert Alcibiades, Margrave of Brandenburg-Kulmbach, burnt the castle down. Afterward the castle was used as a prison for a while.

   
Altenburg restaurant,  the Knight’s Hall and a fresh grilled halloumi-vegetable plate,  great summer dish.

In 1801, the Bamberg physician Adalbert Friedrich Marcus acquired the decaying castle and restored it from the ground up. The author E. T. A. Hoffmann, who was friends with Marcus, felt so drawn to the castle that he frequently stayed for a long time in one of the wall towers during the years 1808 to 1813. Today the castle is open for public tours. There is also a restaurant in the castle called the „Restaurant Altenburg.“ The restaurant also manages the so-called Knights Hall, used mostly for festive occasions such as weddings or other celebrations.  Now let’s come to the „other important side“ of Bamberg – the BEER.

    Bamberg beer – just mouthwatering !

Bamberg, the Capital of Beer.

The history of the Bamberg brewing dates back to the year 1039 as the Bamberg canon Ouldaricus decreed that at his death the population free beer should be served. Already in the 12th century of Bamberg beer was exported as a valuable asset to distant lands.

  Some of the great beers of Bamberg.

Since then a lot has happened in the brewery landscape that had its heyday in the 19th century with 65 breweries and 22 beer cellars. To date, a well-known beyond the city limits beyond specialty beer has received – the smoked beer – whose root dates back to the Middle Ages. The malt could only be stopped by heating over an open fire at its germination process (due to lack of technical possibilities). Since the fire was not sufficiently separated from the germinated barley, this assumed a distinct smoky flavor, which later can be found in your glass.

  Wild Rose Cellar beer garden. What an atmosphere !

The Reinheitsgebot (purity law) from 1487, which allows the beer ingredients only hops, malt and water. In the 18th century the city was one of the largest hops trading centers of Southern Germany.

   Bavarian purity law established in 1487.

So it is not surprising that already became the poet Jean Paul in the 19th century into raptures and the beer the cathedral city praised by exclaiming: „Heavens, what a beer!“
Currently nine breweries in the city of Bamberg and another 90 in the surrounding area show that Bamberg is the stronghold of an incomparable variety of beers and therefore has the highest density of breweries in the world.

One Bamberg speciality are the „Bamberger Hoernla“, a potato brand and a potato dish out of the area.

Bamberg Breweries.

Bamberg has a very historic cultural scene, especially the restaurant scene is well known for own specialties and high class Bavarian dishes. Multi-faceted and seasonal beers characterize the offer.
From top-fermented full beer (Kaiserdom), smoked beer (Schlenkerla and  Spezial), dark beer (Klosterbräu), lager (Greifenklau) over Zwergla (Fässla) to the classics Kellerbier (Maisel), wheat beer (Mahr’s Brau) and Pils (Keesmann).

    Brewery Keesmann.

To permanently available beers they offer seasonal specialties such as Mai Bock (strong beer in May) or Bockbier (during hunting season) in autumn or Christmas Beer for example. Overall, more than 60 different beers just waiting to be tasted. Visitors and locals alike, it is owed by your loyalty to local, traditionally brewed beer that this diversity has survived until today. This region has the highest brewery density in the world.

    Wonderful vintage beer advertising poster.

Every year on 23rd of April bamberg celebrates the „Day of the Beer“. On this day you can taste everything available and dive into „beerlife“ as deep as you like, its beer heaven.
All this makes Bamberg for many  the actual „Capital of Beer“.

Franconian Brewery Museum Bamberg.

  The iron sign of the museum on Michelsberg.

That museum is located in restored historic vaults of the former Benedictine Brewery on Michelsberg. On 900 square meters of exhibition equipment and historical developments in the fields of brewing, malting and Büttnerei (how to make wooden barrels) be shown. From the production of malt to the finished beer, the production process of the malt and beer production is explained clearly.

  Typical Bamberg smoked beers, all in their own glasses.

Bierkeller on Stephan’s Berg and on Kaulberg.

The origin of the beer cellar is thanks to a royal decision. Ludwig I of Bavaria had in fact determined that beer could only be brewed in the winter months between „Michaeli and Georgi“. And the people did not want to give up the pleasure of bottom-fermented beer, which has a temperature of between four and eight degrees needed to ferment, leaving the resourceful Brauer deep cellar caves in the rock beat.

    Bamberg beer garden with view onto Michelsberg.

Here outsourced and matured beer in barrels under huge chunks of natural ice, which was knocked out of rivers and lakes in winter. To protect against the sun’s heat, the Brauer scattered light gravel on the cellar caves and planted shady chestnut or linden. On this pleasant place the fresh beer was served in the summer. The thing spoke quickly spread, and soon attracted multitudes of thirsty „in the basement“.

    The brewery restaurant Klosterbraeu.

With a shake of the head comment tourists again and again the fact that the Bamberger and their guests may eat snacks brought to the cellars. Also this tradition dates back to King Ludwig I.. To gain restaurants without private Bierkeller a competitive advantage, he forbade the serving of food to the provisional places Schank. But the citizens were resourceful and then packed bread, sausage and cheese in baskets before they strolled with family and good friends to the basement. It has not changed the way until today.

  Schnitzel with potato salad and a Kloster beer.

The Bamberg Beer War.

As Bamberger beer war is called an episode that took place in Bamberg 1907. The Bamberger breweries wanted to increase the price for 0,5 liters of beer (one Seidla) on October 1,  by 1 penny (from 10 to 11 penny’s). The last price increase was 110 years ago, in 1797 , unbelievable  !!!

    Beer War in Bamberg, October 1907.

The Bamberg population was shocked because of these drastic measures. They refused to pay the new price and for that Bamberg breweries went into strike. Instead of „expensive“ Bamberger beer, they  now offered  the cheaper beer  from Forchheim, which could be sold very well at this time, unlike the Bamberg beer.

                  
Introduction page of the Weierich menu and history page of the beer war in Bamberg.

After a week the strike Bamberger breweries gave way on October 7th in 1907 and withdrew the price increase. The cost of half a liter was 10 Penny’s (German Pfennig) again. I couldn’t find out for how long.

Restaurant Weierich.

                   
One page (of 12 pages total) of the Franconian dishes and a page of starters, soups and salads.
Wish we had quality food like such and especially prices like this in Uruguay.

This is one of the most beautiful and ethnic restaurants in Bamberg. Already founded in 1490, housed the beer war, changed owners a few times and still alive in the historic city. I’ll show you an extract of one of the most beautiful restaurant menus one can find in Bamberg. It completely speaks for itself, sadly no English copy was available.

                
Short Weierich history and the Biggest Bierhaxe (beer pork knuckle) in Bamberg.
History of Bamberg with the Horseman, the Drunken Guy and the Money Bugger.

  This is the famous Bierhaxn, YUMMY !!

Check out a few breweries in Bamberg, you won’t be disappointed.

Brauerei Fässla.

   Brauerei Faessla with wonderful iron work above.

We call Fässla the gnome brewery. Those gnoms are all over the place, on the walls, the glassware, the website. It’s pretty funny.
The little guys must work some magic on the beer though.

  Big portion of „Schaeuferla“ for 8,90 euro only – wow!!!

The „Dunkel“ beer hit the spot with its fresh bready and nutty character. The place has guest rooms upstairs so you could stay there on your visit.  This brewery restaurant has a small beer garden in the rear and for sure the most locals as guests. They know where to get best prices and quality.

Brauerei Spezial.

       Spezial brewery outside.

You gotta’ love how close everything is in Bamberg.  Spezial is directly across the street from Fässla . My recommended hotel, the Best Western Bamberg is just 80m up the road.
Fässla was great but we were in Bamberg and wanted some Rauchbier , which Fässla didn’t provide. Fortunately Spezial scratched the itch. It’s more dimly lit and quieter than Fässla. It seemed like more of a regulars’ place.

    Famous for Bamberg, the Rauchbiers.

The Weissbier was especially interesting. It’s a solid Hefeweizen base beer and a touch of smoke adds in a great complexity. The Maerzen is their more typical smoked beer with the requisite bacon and BBQ taste, I liked it very much.

         
Warming beer to the right temperature, left with a „hot water“ element (to use also with ice water and cool your beer down to your right temperature), right the electrical one.

Then there is the mystery of the beer  that the waitress was heating up with an electric heating element. Tourists often do not figure out what that is, especially Americans (to shy to ask, because they are known for „we know everything already“).  It’s a culture thing, Germans like beer „COOL“ but not „ICY“ or „ICE COLD“ like other nations, especially Australians. So, some locals let the waitress „warm up“ their beers to a „cool“ level. As colder you drink a beer as more you loose the taste.  Don’t mix it up with warm or flat beer.

Brauerei Schlenkerla.

You know when you’ve arrived because it’s got the most tourists. There is a beer garden in the back which was full so we found a spot inside. Like the other breweries it’s small, wooded, and dark inside. There are rooms seemingly tucked away everywhere.

Another Bamberg specialty – baked onion  with spicy ground beef and bacon, side baked potatoes or mash.

The Maerzen was fantastic. You could definitely tell a difference in freshness between it and the beer you’ll get in the States or else – out of cans. The food was top-notch as well.

Brauerei Ambrausianum.

        Ambrausianum brewery.

This was the last brewery we visited and the most unique of the four. It’s  the only brew pub in the city. Ambrausianum a more modern establishment. Even, dare I say, more American looking. Two bright copper tanks anchor the middle of the pub. There is a small patio area out front but it’s doesn’t have a large beer garden. Still inviting atmosphere.

    Inside the Ambrausianum.

I was happy to see they had a sampler (which they call the “Bierprobe”) so I went with that. Between the Dunkel, Weizen, and Helles, my favorite was the Dunkel.  The Weizen and Helles was also very good. The food was also good.  Definitely stop at Ambrausianum if you visit Bamberg.

   Dunkel, Weizen, Helles – The Bierprobe.

BierschmeckerTour – Beer Tasting Tours.

Eight Bamberg breweries and the Franconian Brewery Museum are pleased to be part of your Bier-Schmecker-Tour. Armed with the city map you convert it unerringly on paths grown brewing culture through the old town of Bamberg.

A Bier-Schmecker-Plate for two. Big portions of grilled pork belly, pork knuckle, sidedishes, 12 small sausages, 6 big ones (bratwurst).  All to wash  down with a couple liters of beer.
Now I am drinking Patricia Dunkel out of gnome glasses.

For 22 euros per person you get a kit that will accompany you on your tour. These include a high-quality backpack with Bamberg emblem, a real beer stein Bier-Schmecker-Stadt-Bamberg, the detailed booklet, beer mats of brewers and a Bamberg Postcard. Your Bier-Schmecker-Tour includes 5 vouchers that can be used flexibly.

          
Book a tour on this Beer Bike – great fun, driving  with a beer in your hand. The Bamberg Rucksack.

For every voucher you will receive either a Seidla (1/2 liter) of beer in the participating breweries, the entry for the Franconian Brewery Museum or an original bottle „BierSchmeckerStadt Bamberg“
( Available in Bamberg Tourist – Information). The 5 Vouchers are also transferable, so you can also invite an accompaniment to your Bier-Schmecker-Tour.

View from the Old Town Hall bridge, left the Blue House, right Kunigunde statue, straight on Little Venice.

My most favorite Bamberg place – the Old Town Hall.

        Old Town Hall from southwest.

This most unusual building, the Old Town Hall, which was built in the middle of the 14th century, is quite a curiosity. The frescoes that adorn the facades are as amazing as the story behind the building’s construction. A very impressive building and for sure one of the most photographed tourist attractions.

  Old Town Hall from southeast.

According to legend the bishop of Bamberg did not grant the citizens any land for the construction of a town hall. This prompted the townsfolk to ram stakes into the river Regnitz to create an artificial island, on which they built the town hall they so badly wanted. This is defenately a MUST SEE in Bamberg.

                 
Bridge gate and tower of the Old Town Hall and the famous fresco’s on town hall building.

The Old Town Hall’s frescoes never fail to impress as they lend the facades a three-dimensional quality achieved with trompe d’oeil architecture. A special detail is a continual source of mirth among tourists, the leg of a cherub protrude out of the wall as a sculpture. Today the Old Town Hall accommodates the prestigious rococo hall and the Ludwig Collection. I hope, you will have a chance once, to see this great city in person.