Last weekend I had a long skype chat with my old friend Mathis from Switzerland. He lives with his wife Louna, both retired, in Aix-en-Provence near Marseille in France. Of course we exchanged many memories, so as our common food tours around Provence. To make a long story short, we turned each other on with the memory of Bouillabaisse.

       Restaurant Chez Laurette and their wonderful carpaccio.

Especially the authentic „Bouillabaisse Marseillaise“ at the restaurant Chez Laurette, Place de Cardeurs in Aix, or the first floor restaurant Chat Reveur (now the Mandarine) at Place de l’Hotel de Ville, where we spent some wonderful culinary nights together.

                     Restaurant Chat Reveur and their delicious Mediterranean salad with Halloumi.

Aix-en-Provence.

Those who visit Aix can enjoy peaceful walks, beautiful scenery, sunshine and cafes. In fact, the most famous brasserie in Aix – the Deux Garçons, which was built in 1792 was often visited by Ernest Hemingway, Emile Zola, Picasso and Paul Cezanne, among others.

      The worlds very well known Brasserie Deux Garcons (Two waiters, doesn’t sound as well in English).

I told him about the unusual cold weather we have in Uruguay now and how I miss a good Bouillabaisse. His comment, „you are a good cook, make one yourself“ !!  Yes I would, but where to get the seafood from. He couldn’t believe, that there is no good seafood available in a country located on so many kilometers of seashore.

  That’s life at Deux Garcons.

Yes, I told him, it’s a fact – very poor availability of seafood – and if, expensive and poor quality and/or imported frozen. A good friend of ours, a Japanese Sushi Master in Montevideo,who runs a small restaurant answered once on the question: „You are a sushi master, why don’t you offer good sushi, there is nothing like it in Montevideo?“, „Sorry, but I can’t get good quality fresh fish in Uruguay!“. Ja ja, my friends, Uruguay is a meat country – that’s why !!

Another french specialty we had at Deux Garcons, „onion soup“.

Bouillabaisse is normally a fish stew that is the regional specialty of Marseille, France. It’s like a cioppino, chock full of fish and shellfish in a tomato broth. It’s served with something called a “rouille,” (pronounced “roo-wee”) which is the spicy mayo/ aioli dollop that you see on most of the final products.

  And here their „vegetarian feast“, no complaints.

The fishermen of Marseille originated bouillabaisse when they couldn’t sell all fish, so they made a stew of the leftovers. First it was just a cheap soup, but throughout the years it evolved to a fine meal of highest quality. Of course, today’s ingredients are from region to region and from restaurant to restaurant very different.

        Paul Cezanne and Emile Zola (left) were frequent guests at Deux Garcons, so as Pablo Picasso, Ernest Hemingway and Paul Gaugain (right). The Deux Garcons also housed  Woody Allan movie scenes from „Midnight in Paris“, 2011.

At the end of our skype conversation Mathis promised to send some pics of the restaurants and food we had there in Aix. Meantime I got some and work them into this post.

  Double espresso and fresh cream to round a meal.

Also we brought up the idea to improvise, as we always do in Uruguay, if we can’t get what we are looking for. That means, I will make bouillabaisse with chicken. During my cooking years I made bouillabaisse very often but this recipe I made New Years Eve 2000 (in Australia) the first time after Julia Child’s recipe, because I adore her basic french recipes very much. It is also great fun to watch her early TV shows.

              Julia Child in her TV kitchen, which is belonging to the Smithsonian Museum now. And her philosophy !!!

Julia Carolyn Child (maiden name, Mac Williams, August 15, 1912 – August 13, 2004) was an American chef, author, and television personality. She is recognized for bringing French cuisine to the American public with her debut cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, and her subsequent television programs, the most notable of which was The French Chef, which premiered in 1963.

                                        Julia’s TV shows are always good fun. Up here the bouillabaisse part.

Believe it or not, just last night I watched on Sony Tv the movie „Julie and Julia“, Meryll Streep starring Julia Child. Great fun ! Here is Julia’s chicken bouillabaisse recipe, for all of you adoring bouillabaisse, but can’t get or don’t like seafood so much.

Bouillabaisse de Poulet avec Pistou.

Another tidbit of using chicken that attracted me was the recipe’s use of anise seed and/or Pernod, which is a licorice liqueur made back in the day as a substitute for absinthe, when it had gotten a bad rap. Another part of my Mediterranean cooking experience is to check out what ingredients I had and what I needed to get. By the way, the original bouillabaisse has very often some kind of vegetables, like carrots, or potatoes added.

  Chicken and carrot bouillabaisse, delicious !

First, I had to butcher a chicken. It’s very simple and has a cool accent.  Why would I butcher my own chicken? Well, I happened to have had a whole chicken waiting in the fridge for its ultimate destiny. But cost has a lot to do with this, too. A “whole cut up chicken” at the supermarket or the butcher costs much more, instead doing it yourself.

  Our original seafood bouillabaisse.  Not so much difference to the chicken one shown above.

The recipe calls for fennel seed, but I like to use fresh fennel, because its easy to get in Uruguay. On the other hand I have lots of anise/fennel seeds and that’s what I use.
This dish takes a few hours to make, but the result is an elegant winter stew that has a flavor with an unbelievable depth to it.

“Bouillabaisse de Poulet” (Chicken Poached in White Wine with Provencal Vegetables, Herbs, and Flavorings) which included a “Pistou” (Herb, Cheese, and Garlic Finish). Get some crusty bread to eat with it and you’ll feel like your in southern France, too.

     This is in Aix-en-Provence, Place de l’Hotel de Ville  and a lavender seller in front the fountain.

Bouillabaisse de Poulet Ingredients.

1 small white onion, sliced
1 small sliced leek, white part only
25 ml olive oil
4-5 whole tomatoes, peeled and seeded
2 cloves garlic, smashed
3 pound ( 1 1/2kg) chicken,  cut into smaller (about 5x5cm) parts,
(breast and thigh will be best, you also can leave thigh on the bone)
salt to taste
200 ml dry white wine
150 ml chicken stock
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp. thyme
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, smashed (alternatively 1 shot Pernod)
2 pinches saffron
about 5cm piece of orange peel
big pinch of pepper
pinch of cayenne
more salt to taste

  Some ingredients for a great „chicken bouillabaisse“.

Pistou Ingredients.

2 large cloves garlic
12 large fresh basil leaves
30g Parmesan, freshly grated
3 tablespoons tomato paste
4 dashes Tabasco sauce

  Pistou as it should be.

How to do.

In a large and covered heavy pan (I like to use my Le Creuset) or casserole which can do double duty on the stove top and oven, cook the onions and leeks in the olive oil over low heat, about 10 minutes, till they are golden, do not let them brown.

   Take the time and prepare the tomatoes well, its worth it, not to chew around on the tomato skin.

While the onions are cooking, prepare the tomatoes by adding them whole to a heat proof measuring cup and pouring boiling water over them. Allow them to sit about a minute before pouring off the hot water and adding cold. The peelings should rub right off. Cut each in half and scrap out the seeds. Discard peelings and seeds. Add the tomatoes and garlic to the onion mixture and cover, allowing to cook for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and increase the heat to medium and allow the released juices to nearly evaporate.

  Preparing the bouillabaisse broth.

While the tomatoes are cooking, lightly salt the chicken pieces, then add them to the tomato and onion mixture. Nestle the pieces down into the pan and spoon some of the tomatoes over the top of the chicken pieces. Cover and cook/braise for 10 minutes, turning the pieces once about half way through the cooking time.

  Cooking the chicken (here with drumsticks) in the broth.

Pour the wine and the broth over the chicken making sure the pieces are completely submerged. Add the herbs and other seasonings, stirring lightly to mix them into the liquid. Cover and bring to a simmer, allowing to cook 25 minutes more either in a preheated 160 C (325 F) degree oven or on the stove top until the chicken is done.

While the chicken is cooking prepare the pistou by mincing the garlic with a bit of salt until it is a paste. Stack the basil leaves on top of one another, roll them together, then slice very thinly. Add the garlic past and basil to a small bowl and combine with the Parmesan, tomato paste, and Tabasco sauce. Mix well. When the chicken is done, stir the pistou into the broth.
Taste to correct seasoning and serve directly from the pot.

  Mixed chicken pieces bouillabaisse, ready to serve.

Tips.

Although the name of this dish may sound fancy, it’s quite a simple dish that is easy to prepare.
The recipe allows for many options such as canned tomatoes instead of fresh, dried herbs in place of fresh, and French vermouth instead of white wine.
The broth is truly heavenly! We enjoyed this with pieces of crusty bread we used to soak up the broth.

  Bouillabaisse with whole chicken legs. One each for each person and you have a full, mouthwatering main course. Serve with lots of baguette and a green side salad.

Bouillabaisse is traditionally a type of fish stew made with vegetables similar to  the chicken version presented here.
Essentially, the technique involves bringing the ingredients to a boil, then simmering them with Provencal herbs before serving it poured over bread and a rouille which describes as a “garlic, pimento, chili pepper sauce.
I decided to go with the pistou instead. But, I leave you the rouille recipe too. Rouille is an Aioli like, creamy paste.

  More elegant version, pulled chicken bouillabaisse.

If you leave the skin on the chicken during the cooking process,  there is fat that needed to be spooned off before serving.
If you decided to make this dish a day before, the fat would solidify in the fridge and removing it before reheating would be easy.
This dish is actually quite good served cold, but we loved it so much there were no left overs to find that out for ourselves.
Normally I don’t like to peel or seed tomatoes when I cook, but every once in a while decide not to be so lazy. You also can easily use „canned peeled“ tomatoes, but still no seeds and no juice please.

  Rouille on bouillabaisse and fresh baguette.

Rouille.

3 large garlic cloves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 extra-large egg yolk (it’s very important that the egg is at room temperature)
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or chilli powder, if you like it hot)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

      Rouille with a blue mussel and garlic bread dish, as well as Mathis’s favorite Provence rose wine.  One of the pictures Mathis sent me.  Mmmmm – fresh blue mussels – not in Uruguay.

Place the garlic and salt on a cutting board and mince together to form a paste.
Transfer to the food processor and add the yolk, lemon juice, saffron, and red pepper flakes (or chilli).
Process until smooth. Add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream through the feed tube to make a thick emulsion.
Taste and add more salt if needed.
Transfer to a serving bowl and keep in the refrigerator until ready to use.
Its made to dollop this on top of the bouillabaisse. Actually I had the real deal once in Marseille, there they take the Aioli (Rouille), spread it on the bread, and then toast or broil the bread.
Then one dips the bread into the stew.
While the Aioli in the stew was really good, it was quite rich, but the Rouille on the bread would probably be more to our tastes.  Anyway ENJOY !!!

      And these are two more pics from Mathis. Wonderful fresh bouillabaisse on the left and a special bouillabaisse on the right, almost a paella, but no rice just the bouillabaisse broth. Thanks very much Mathis for participating.